The ultimate Cold-Shot Pipe Freeze Kit Part CST2.
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General Wire CST2 Cold-Shot Pipe Freeze Kit, Small, Black and orange The Ultimate Cold-Shot Pipe Freeze Kit Part CST2 from:
PLUMBING VENT PROBLEMS. 6 IMPORTANT THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW
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Plumbing Vent Problems. 1.Plumbing vent, also known as a vent stack, helps regulate the air pressure in your plumbing system.
Easy Steps In Cleaning Your Drain.
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Easy Steps In Cleaning Your Drain. There are some easy steps in cleaning your drain instead of calling a professional.
Sweating Toilet Tank. 4 Basic steps
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SWEATING TOILET TANK? There are several factors that can lead to a sweating toilet tank as listed below. A faulty
The plumbing in your home, building, auto or in any capacity works as a delivery and an exhaustive entity. Usually, whatever is inserted in the circuitry; the bi-product will be exhausted. Never flush paper towels,baby wipes,rags or even bubble-gum in your sink or toilet. These items are solids. They are not bio-degradable, in other words these items will not break in small pieces to pass through traps and pipes. Bubble-gum or chewing gum will over time got stuck onto interior of pipes and eventually trap any passing debris which builds up and clog plumbing.Read More
Make sure all lock-offs to water line leading to outside of building to outdoor (usually these are mounted through wall for gardening purposes) are closed and outside valve is open before winter sets in.Opening valve on outside will drain residual water from line therefore, preventing frozen and cracked line. One of the most common avenue for leaks in your home is the toilet. You may not hear it leaking but you can observe by the tank sweating on the outside. You may also observe when removing tank cover, the water level rises above the center over-flow. You may have a leaking flap or a defective float as explained in Sweating Toilet Tank
This PEX Pipe plumbing Cinch Crimping Tool with Clamp. The clamp cinch plumbing tool is used with stainless steel clamps to make PEX connections. It adopts high quality stainless steel, which features sturdy and durable. The head part is made of #40 steel, it’s forged, which can not only ensure an integrated mechanical property but also a much longer service life. With red rubber long handle, it can save 30% labor and make it easy to operate. Moreover, the ratchet safety-function bring fast and reliable installation. So don’t hesitate, just take action!Read More
Features:
1. Made of high quality stainless steel, sturdy and durable. 2. Can be used to make PEX connections
3. Head part uses #40 steel, ensure an integrated mechanical property and long service time
4. Red rubber long handle can save 30% labor and make it easy to operate
5. Ratchet safety-function bring fast and reliable plumbing installation
6. Easy to install. Specifications:
1. Material: Stainless Steel
2. Color: Blue
3. Used with: Stainless Steel Clamps to Make PEX plumbing Connections
4. Suitable for: Stainless Steel Clamps of sizes 3/8″, 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″ and 1″
5. Suitable Model: Any ASTM F2098 Stainless Steel Clamps from Any Manufacturer
6. This plumbing Tool Can’t Fit: Zurn Quick Clamp(Not ASTM F2098 Standard)
7. Head Part: Made of #40 Steel
8. Dimensions: (15.35 x 4.72 x 1.18)”/ (39 x 12 x 3)cm (L x W x H)
9. Weight: 21.16oz / 600g. Package Includes:
1 x Cinch plumbing Crimping Tool
1 x Calibration Tool
20 x 1/2″ Stainless Steel Clamps
10 x 3/4″ Stainless Steel Clamps.
1. Made of high quality stainless steel, sturdy and durable. 2. Can be used to make PEX connections
3. Head part uses #40 steel, ensure an integrated mechanical property and long service time
4. Red rubber long handle can save 30% labor and make it easy to operate
5. Ratchet safety-function bring fast and reliable plumbing installation
6. Easy to install. Specifications:
1. Material: Stainless Steel
2. Color: Blue
3. Used with: Stainless Steel Clamps to Make PEX plumbing Connections
4. Suitable for: Stainless Steel Clamps of sizes 3/8″, 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″ and 1″
5. Suitable Model: Any ASTM F2098 Stainless Steel Clamps from Any Manufacturer
6. This plumbing Tool Can’t Fit: Zurn Quick Clamp(Not ASTM F2098 Standard)
7. Head Part: Made of #40 Steel
8. Dimensions: (15.35 x 4.72 x 1.18)”/ (39 x 12 x 3)cm (L x W x H)
9. Weight: 21.16oz / 600g. Package Includes:
1 x Cinch plumbing Crimping Tool
1 x Calibration Tool
20 x 1/2″ Stainless Steel Clamps
10 x 3/4″ Stainless Steel Clamps.
INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEOS ON HOW TO MAKE PEX CLAMP AND CRIMP CONNECTION WITH YOUR NEW PLUMBING DEVICE
5/5
Expand PEX Type-A tubing from 3/8 In. to 1 In. with the 20V MAX Cordless 1in. PEX Expander,Read More
the fastest PEX Expander on the market. It’s proudly made in the USA with global materials. An automatic rotating head helps to ensure even expansion. The bright onboard LED work light and full trigger actuation make it an excellent tool in dimly lit, tight spaces. Carry this tool conveniently around the jobsite with a dual-sided hang hook and belt hook. Rubber overmold on the handle provides an ergonomic grip to keep you comfortable all day. This tool uses DeWalt PEX Heads, and it is compatible with leading competitive PEX heads. What’s in The Box. DeWALT 1-Inch Pex Cordless Rotating Head Expansion Tool (Bare Tool) – DCE400B. Pex Expander Grease. Expander Heads – DCE40034 (3/4″), DCE40012 (1/2″), DCE4001 (1″)Heavy Duty Kit Box. Owner’s Manual.
Features
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Expands 3/8 In. – 1 In. Pex Type-A tubing. Automatic rotating head action for even expansion. Full trigger actuation for use in tight spaces. Bright LED work light to help illuminate dark areas. Dual-sided hang and belt hooks for convenient storage. Rubber overmold for comfortable, ergonomic grip. Uses DeWalt PEX Heads. Warranty: 3-Year Limited Factory Warranty: 30 Day Satisfaction Guaranteed.
Standard Faucet Diverter with AeratorRead More
Can be installed on most kitchen faucets plumbing to divert water to the Countertop, RO or RO/DI unit.
Pull-ON action diverts water to the 1/4″ barb outlet.
Automatic barb shutoff when water pressure drops or on faucet turn off.
Note: Separate washers and adapters are available for purchase to match other faucet threading.
Pull-ON action diverts water to the 1/4″ barb outlet.
Automatic barb shutoff when water pressure drops or on faucet turn off.
Note: Separate washers and adapters are available for purchase to match other faucet threading.
1/4″ outlet for tubing.
Fits most standard size faucets. Easy Pull-ON action.
1/2 inch female thread
diverter valve with 1/4 inch tubing
Brass make with chrome finish
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GUIDE TO ASPECTS OF PLUMBING
PLUMBING TIPS
Know where your water main shuts off are.Read More
If you live in a condo, find out if individual units will shut off or if the whole building has to be turned off. This comes in handy when you have a very bad leak. Check and make sure all plumbing under sinks and behind toilets turn easily so you can shut those off if you ever have a problem. Make sure you know where all of your clean-outs (the access to the sewer line) are located. When buying a new home, make sure the sewer lines are checked for any root or settling problems.Check all plumbing.
If you have a leaky toilet, it is most likely due to a worn flapper.Read More
These are inexpensive replacement parts that you can purchase and replace easily. Just read the simple instructions and you’re good to go.
As for sinks, you can now fix most faucets by replacing the interior component with a new one. It is nothing more than removing one or two screws to do the replacement.
As for sinks, you can now fix most faucets by replacing the interior component with a new one. It is nothing more than removing one or two screws to do the replacement.
Specific Step On Installing A Gas Hot Water Tank
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Step 1: DRAIN THE TANK. Step 2: DISCONNECT THE GAS LINE AND WATER LINES. Step 3: DETACH THE GAS EXHAUST FROM THE FLUE HAT. Step 4: SET THE NEW WATER HEATER IN PLACE. Step 5: INSTALL THE HEAT TRAP FITTINGS. Step 6: INSTALL WATER LINE CONNECTIONS. Step 7: CONNECT THE GAS SUPPLY LINE Step 8: TEST THE GAS LINE FOR LEAKS. Step 9: LIGHT THE PILOT. Step 10: TURN THE CONTROL KNOB ON.
LiGHTING GAS PILOT
Remove the burner access panel.Read More
Turn the knob on top of the control box to the pilot position. Hold a lit fireplace match or barbecue lighter to the pilot access opening. Press and hold down the reset button on the control box for 60 seconds after the pilot ignites.Turn the knob on top of the control box to the On position — you should hear the burner ignite.Read More
If it doesn’t, remove the access panel and relight the pilot. Replace the burner access panel and set the control at a temperature between 118 and 123 degree With this valve in photo, comes with a button where when pressed; delivers a clicking sound igniting the pilot. There is an indicator flashing light which signals that the pilot is lit.
ELECTRIC HOT WATER TANK
Make sure that power to the water heater is turned off at the main circuit breaker.Read More
If you have fuses, remove them. Connect the electrical supply according to manufacturer’s instructions. Connect bare copper or ground wire to the ground screw. Replace the electrical access plate. Remove the thermostat access plate and then pull back any insulation to expose the thermostat. Use a screwdriver to change the thermostat temperature setting in 10-degree increments. The recommended temperature is 120 degrees. Replace the thermostat access plate. When the tank is full, restore power and press the reset button on the panel. Connect the plumbing supply lines to the water heater according to manufacturer’s instructions and local code requirements (solid copper pipe or flexible copper supply lines are common). Make sure the drain valve is completely closed, and then turn the main water supply on and open all line valves. Open one or more faucets on the home’s highest floor and run the water until it flows steadily from the faucets. A steady flow of water from the hot water faucet indicates a full water heater. When completely filled, close the faucets and check for leaks.
REPLACING HEATING ELEMENTS IN AN ELECTRIC HOT WATER TANK
.Read More
The main difference between electric and gas water heaters is the heat source. In an electric water heater, the water is heated by electric upper and lower heating elements that extend into the water tank. Gas water heaters have a gas burner that heats the water from below the tank.
Problems with little or no heat usually are caused by a failed heating element, an inexpensive part that is relatively easy to replace.Read More
Other problems may be due to improper settings, high home water pressure, or a lack of tank maintenance. Electric water heaters are high-voltage (240-volt) appliances that are dangerous to work with when the power is on. Before checking any electrical parts of a water heater, shut off the power to the heater’s circuit by turning off the appropriate breaker in your home’s service panel (breaker box).
Also, test all wires in the water heater with a non-contact voltage tester to confirm the power is off before touching the wires.Read More
A water heater that produces no hot water may not be getting power, or it may have a tripped limit switch or one or more failed heating elements. First, check the water heater’s circuit breaker in the service panel to make sure it hasn’t tripped. If the breaker has tripped, switch it off, then switch it back on again. If the heater’s breaker did not trip (it is still on), try to reset the high-temperature limit on the heater: Turn off the breaker to the water heater’s circuit in the service panel. Remove the access panel for the upper heating element on the water heater. Remove the insulation and the plastic safety guard, being careful not to touch any wires or electrical terminals. Press the red button—the high-temperature cutoff reset button—located above the upper thermostat. Replace the safety guard, insulation, and access panel. Turn on the heater’s circuit breaker. If that doesn’t solve the problem, test each heating element and replace it, if necessary.
NEVER EVER IGNORE LEAKS
That steady drip, drip, drip of a fixture symbolizes money going down the drain.Read More
In fact, a leaky faucet typically wastes up to eight gallons of water per day, while a running toilet can waste 200 gallons per day. Fix small leaks promptly before they become big—and costly—problems.

More times than not, your flapper is the cause to your running toilet.Read More
As the flapper slowly leaks, it causes the fill valve to do it’s job and that’s why you hear your fill valve running. Test if your flapper is leaking by marking the water level of your tank with a pencil. Turn your water supply off. Wait for a minimum of 25 minutes. If your water level drops below the pencil mark, you have a leak in your tank.Leave the water off for a couple hours and see where the water level drops to. If the water level drops to the flapper, your flapper is leaking and needs to be replaced. If it drops to a point on your overflow tube or your tank drained completely, your flush valve needs to be replaced.If your tank is not leaking, but your toilet is constantly running or water is rising into flush valve overflow tube, your fill valve is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced or serviced. Did you know Korky replace old technology too?If this didn’t solve your running toilet issue, maybe it’s time to service your fill valve. This is a quick disassemble of the fill valve, without removing it from your toilet and cleaning it out to ensure it works properly.
SLOW BATH TUB DRAIN

There are so many different reasons as to why your bathtub drains slowly.Read More
Luckily, there are a few simple methods to fix it that could save you from having to call a plumber. A slow bathtub drain can result from any of the following combinations (or all of them): A lack of regular drain cleaninga buildup of hair. a buildup of soap, body oil, and other bathing beauty aids. If this sounds like it could be your issue, don’t reach for the caustic store-bought chemical drain cleaner just yet — there are more effective (and safer) ways to manually clear your bathtub drain. To manually clear your drain, you will need to begin by removing your trip lever to gain access. 
Once you have removed your trip lever you may need to get further into the pipeRead More
to clear slow drains. The following techniques can help you finish the job. You should first remove your drain stopper in order to clear grease and hair that may build up before reaching trap. After you have removed hair and other matter from the drain, flush them with hot water or a vinegar and baking soda mixture. Both methods are safer than many standard store-bought chemical cleaners and can be as effective.
SLOW KITCHEN AND BATHROOM SINK
A slow, sluggish sink drain is a very common plumbing problem.Read More
The bathroom sink is the one most frequently afflicted with this particular problem, and several things can contribute to a slow sink drain.Often the pop-up that is used to stop up the sink can collect a lot of hair and debris because the sink is used on a daily basis. Also, soap and other products that are washed down the drain can slowly collect in the drain pipes. The build-up that naturally collects over time reduces the size of the drain, effectively slowing the progress of draining water.This drainage issue happens naturally over time and usually cannot be avoided. The only solution is to clean the drain periodically to keep it flowing. The first step to getting the sink drain flowing again is to clear out any hair and debris that has collected there. One quite easy way to do this is to use the Zip-it tool, an inexpensive tool that works wonders in just minutes. The Zip-it tool can be put into the drain to catch hair and debris, which can then be pulled out. The Zip-it can be used in a sink drain with or without a pop-up because it is thin enough to fit in the drain even with a pop-up in place. Click Here for easy steps in cleaning for more information.